Mountain Bike Headset Information

Mountain Bike Headset Posts

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Mountain Bike headset installing and reinstalling? I've had my Chris King Classic headset for a few years now and I change frames about 2 times a year for various reasons like frames breaking, upgrading frames, etc. Does this installing/reinstalling really put that much wear on the headset?

Joel M replied: "there's no reason it would, unless you damaged the cups by removing them with the wrong tool. Like a screwdriver. Use a proper (even home-made) cup remover and you'll be fine. - Joel"

jp replied: "no , if you b careful in dismantling"

M R replied: "Wear would only occur when any damage is done during the process. So as long as you are very careful it's OK. Curious though, I never heard of a 2 annual frame change. I've never broke a frame in my long cycling career. I guess your weakness is frames like my weakness for wheel sets!"

What could be the cause of the shakiness in my mountain bike headset area? The headset was installed properly, the frame was faced when I built it up last year in March. The spacers under the stem cap were always properly set up. I also checked to make sure the front wheel is tight in the fork. I also checked to make sure the brakes are not the source of the problem either. Recently whenever I hold front brake and push and pull back on the bars something is rattling. OR whenever I pull back on the bars or hit a bump, I feel some shakiness in the steering area. When I tighten the stem cap bolt so that this shakiness is taken care of, it is hard to steer the handlebars. What could be wrong? Is the star fangled worn? What else could be the problem? An ovalized headtube?

? replied: "Take it apart and check the bearings."

Wolf replied: "Have you tried tightening the stem cap bolt before the two bolts on the side of the stem? Ive had the same problem and i solved it by doing that first. Does you bike have dual crown suspension?"

cycling.dani replied: "make sure that the top bolt and the side bolts are tight. when you check these. grap the spacers, rock the bike back and forth and twist the spacers at the same time. if the spacers move then its not tight enough. the bearing could also be cracked, which will mean a new headset. go to your local bike shop that you trust and get them to have a look at it if your not sure. you dont want to crack anything by overtightening anything and you dont want to strip any bolts either."

sfr1224 replied: "Shakiness in the headset while braking can also be caused by a couple of things. In general, even well adjusted brakes never grip perfectly. They tend to grip then slip. This pulsing isn't usually felt if your headset is in good condition and is properly adjusted. When something is wrong, though, you'll feel it. Hopefully, you already realize this, but the way you asked your question leads me to beleive otherwise. In any case, tightening the cap bolt isn't going to fix anything. The cap bolt is only there to allow you to properly adjust the headset. The cap bolt should only be tight enough to ensure there is no play in the headset. You do not want to tighten it to the point the handlebars become difficult to turn. The bolts that affix the stem to the steering tube provide all the holding power. Thus, once the bolts on the stem are properly tightened up you can actually remove the cap bolt. Its job, along with that of the star fangled nut, are done. If you do not properly tighten the stem bolts, the cap bolt and star fangled nut don't provide enough holding power to keep everything together. The correct proceedure for tightening your headset is: 1. Loosen the stem bolts 2. Gently tighten the cap bolt 3. Check for play in the headset 4. Repeat steps 2 and 3, if necessary 5. Tighten the stem bolts On a mountain bike, the best way to check for play in the headset is to put the bike on a rack. Then, holding onto the fork' s upper arm attempt to rock the steering tube in the headset. Turn the fork in both directions as you rock it. There should be no untoward movement in the headset. If there is movement in the headset you need to give the cap bolt a slight turn. There may be play in the suspension fork, so don't try rocking the bike from the fork's lower arm. You should read about servicing your headset on the Park Tool Website: There is also a possibility you have bad headset bearings. Sealed bearings, in particular, wear out and get sloppy over time. Sounds like it is time to pull the entire headset apart and see what's going on. If the shakiness persists after you've got your headset if good working order, the problem could be in your fork. Hope this helps."

mirageguitarworks replied: "If your headset was installed properly the headtude would have been reamed to avoid any possibility with ovalizing. The star fangled nut is a press fit so it wouldn't have any play in it. You didn't mention if the bike had front suspension, and if it did what the brand is. Some sus forks have interchangable steerers and it is rare but possible for them to come loose. There could be wear in the stanchion bushings or in a variety of other places- especially if the fork has not been maintained. There could be a crack in the crown or in a stanchion or a dropout. If you have discs there could be a crack in the disc mount. If it is a rigid fork and made of carbon fiber with a metal steerer STOP RIDING THE BIKE! The fork is about to fail. This is more common than I care to think about when it comes to cheaper CF versions but can happen with any CF/metal fork. My primary suspect, however, would be the bearings. Tear it apart and make sure the bearings and races are in good shape. If you have a zero stack or external headset a race may be cracked... this usually is not easy to see. Whatever the culprit, I would really recommend that you not ride the bike until the source is found."

bikernoj replied: "The top bolt WILL NOT tighten your headset. Its only purpose is to preload the headset bearings to take out the slop, but if the stem bolts on your steerer tube are not loose then NO amount of tightening on the top cap bolt will do anything for you. If this is too confusing, take it to a bike shop or visit Park Tool's web site and LEARN before you screw something up."

How much is my 1999 Specialized M2 Stumpjumper Comp mountain bike worth? It is in almost new condition.? It has 2003 Rockshox Duke SL forks worth 300,a Hope Enduro headset,new Tioga Factory XC 1.95 R tyres and a Ritchey seat post.Hardly used so in excellent,almost new condition.

JustCurious replied: "Not as much as it should be because there are so many nicked bikes for sale on places like eBay."

M R replied: "Best thing is to keep an eye out for your model year or similar on EBay and track the sales prices for a few of them."

carlos replied: "my guess without looking at it is around $400-500 carlos"

Rich Z replied: "No more than $250 US. it's almost 9 years old, the components are dated. Buy something newer or buy new."

Steve C replied: "You'll be lucky to get 150 for it."

How do I remove a threaded bike headset? I'm trying to strip down an old mountain back bike and am stuck with the headset. I've loosen the top nuts and brackets and looks like this but I can't separate the top from the bottom when I look from the top where the handle bars were there seems to be some kind metal thing but am not sure if its a bolt or not from the bottom it looks like the tip of a lag screw or something like it any ideas? Sorry I'm new to bikes, had some experience in other mechanical stuff just not bikes.

Which Mountain bike do I buy? ok, so I am buying a new mountain bike and I need you guys input on which one. I have to choose from the... Thanks, really, for everyones help I can't dicide '07 Hardrock Pro Disc '06 RockHopper Pro Disc '05 Specialized FSR XC '07 RockHopper Comp Disc Here are the specifications of each bike... 2006 Specialized Rockhopper Pro Disc Frame: A1 Premium Aluminum Fork: Marzocchi Drop OFF Comp, 130mm-travel Rims/Wheels: Sun SingleTrack Hubs Front: Specialized disc; Rear: Shimano M-475 disc Spokes: Stainless-steel Tires: Specialized Enduro, 26 x 2.3 Crankset: TruVativ Blaze Chainwheel: 32/22 w/bash guard Front Derailleur: Shimano Deore Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore LX Rear Cogs: Shimano HG50, 9-speed: 11-34 Shifters: Shimano Deore SL Handlebars: Aluminum riser, 31.8mm Tape/Grips: Specialized double-density Kraton Stem: TruVativ XR Brake Levers: Avid FR-5 Brakes: Avid BB5, mechanical disc Pedals: Aluminum platform Saddle: Specialized Body Geometry Sport MTB Seat Post: Aluminum, micro-adjustable Seat Binder: Aluminum quick-release 2007 Specialized Hardrock Pro Disc Frame: Specialized A1 Premium aluminum w/O.R.E. technology Fork: Marzocchi MZ Race LO, 100mm-travel w/lockout Rims/Wheels: Specialized/Alex Hubs Front: Specialized Hi Lo disc; Rear: Shimano M475 disc Spokes: 14-gauge stainless-steel Tires: Specialized Resolution, 26 x 2.1 Crankset: Shimano Chainwheel: 44/32/22 Front Derailleur: Shimano Deore Rear Derailleur: SRAM SX-5 Rear Cogs: Shimano HG50, 9-speed: 11-34 Shifters: SRAM SX-5 Trigger Handlebars: Aluminum, 31.8mm Tape/Grips: Specialized Enduro double-density Kraton Stem: Specialized 3D forged-aluminum Brake Levers: Hayes Sole Brakes: Hayes Sole, hydraulic disc, 6-inch rotors Pedals: Specialized aluminum platform Saddle: Specialized Body Geometry ATB Seat Post: Aluminum, micro-adjustable 2007 Specialized Rockhopper Comp Disc Frame: Specialized A1 Premium aluminum w/O.R.E. technology Fork: RockShox Tora 302 SL, 100mm-travel Rims/Wheels: Specialized/Alex Hubs: Specialized Hi Lo disc Spokes: 15-gauge stainless-steel Tires: Specialized Fast Trak, 26 x 2.0 Crankset: Shimano Chainwheel: 44/32/22 Front Derailleur: Shimano Deore Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore Rear Cogs: Shimano HG50, 9-speed: 11-34 Shifters: Shimano Deore Handlebars: Aluminum riser Tape/Grips: Specialized Enduro Stem: Specialized 3D forged-aluminum Brake Levers: Avid FR-5 Brakes: Avid BB5, mechanical disc, 6-inch rotors Pedals: Specialized Aluminum Saddle: Specialized Body Geometry MTB Seat Post: Specialized aluminum 2005 Specialized FSR XC Frame: A1-aluminum, FSR technology Fork: Manitou Axel Comp 100mm-travel Headset: Aluminum Rear Shock: X-Fusion air Rims/Wheels: Aluminum Hubs Front: Stout Disc; Rear: Shimano Disc Tires: Specialized Adrenaline, 26 x 2.0 Crankset: Shimano, square taper Chainwheel: 44/32/22 Chain: Shimano Front Derailleur: Shimano Deore Rear Derailleur: Shimano LX Rear Cogs: Shimano Deore LX, 9-speed: 11-34 Shifters: Shimano Deore Handlebars: XC low-rise Tape/Grips: MTB double-density Kraton Stem: 3D forged-aluminum, 6-degree rise Brake Levers: Shimano Brakes: Linear-pull, aluminum Pedals: Aluminum platform Saddle: Body Geometry, dual-density base, steel rails Seat Post: Aluminum Seat Binder: Aluminum quick-release

dave's fotowerks replied: "Sweet. But get a Klein Attitude. "

mbmast replied: "If possible, you should ride each of them on the same trail so that you can compare. If you go to a show/race, often the manufacturers are there and have bikes you can test ride. How much you're willing to spend and they type of riding you plan on doing really should influence your decision the most. For example, if you like climbing (as I do), you might pick the lightest bike. The lighter the bike, the more expensive though. If you like technical drops, you might pick the 2006 Specialized Rockhopper Pro Disc, because that has the 130mm travel fork. I've just upgraded from an old 100mm to a new 130mm and that extra 30mm makes a difference on descents. Disk brakes are nice, but I wouldn't choose one bike over another just because one had disks. Do you ride now? If so, trade with some of your riding buddies to get a feel for how different bikes ride. No matter what you get, if you really ride, you're gonna wear out just about every part on that bike (no kidding). If you get something with a nice fork and frame, but the rest of the gear isn't that great, you can just upgrade that stuff as it wears out. For example, my FSR used to be 8 spead, but the cassettte and chain and rear Derailleur have all worn out, so everything was replaced with 9 speed XT (and then all replaced again after a few years). The point is, it's better to get a good frame/fork with OK everything else than getting good equipment on a heavy/poor frame. I'd probably get the '05 FSR because that's a damn fine bike and is probably cheaper than the others. Mike."

Andy replied: "ive used the hardrock disc before and they are absolutely amazing. i know a summer camp that uses them and they are tortured for several weeks by hundreds of kids -ridden through mud, smashed, banged up, etc- and after 2 years, they still work like new! my advice is get the best bike you can afford. your decision should also depend heavily on the type of riding you do - jumping/stunts or XC- go for something light. downhill/freeride- go with more suspension. hope that helps."

buddhaboy replied: "you never stated the purpose of the bike recreation bike? trail? downhill? commuting?"

Mountain bike's stem and bar are making a creeking noise, what can I do? What is causing my mountain bike's stem/bar to be so creeky? I have an Easton handlebar and a Raceface diablos stem and recently I have been hearing a creeking sound to it. I have heard this sound come from other people's bikes before as well. IT IS DEFINITELY NOT THE HEADSET. I had the headset checked out by a pro mechanic at the shop and checked it out myself and it is fine. When I push down the handlebar, it makes a creeking noise. Is there anything I can do like put some oil in the stem bolts or....? Thanks

bikeworks replied: "That you have noticed that others with the same setup have the same noise there is probably little you can do, but trt this... Loosen up all the bolts (steerer and handlebar) and very carefully retorque them in small steps to keep everything even. Do NOT put oil or grease on the stem/bar. You may place a thin film of grease on the steerer... but not oil."

Keith replied: "SMURF"

OnTheRoadID replied: "Check the stem binder bolts. Those can creak after water and dirt get to them. Grease them -- LIGHTLY -- and then reinstall. Also, you might check the brake lever and shifter bolts. I've found this website to be invaluable for all the little noises that my ancient bikes make: Good luck, and please let us know what works."

Starbuck replied: "I agree with Bikework. So many people use the King Cong approach when making adjustments, or tightening various nuts and bolts. On the other hand, you might have a little grit in the head tube. It could be a million and one things, but I don't think it is a serious problem. Don't Panic!!! Keep this in mind though. I have been riding for ever so many years, and each of my bikes has had its own personality (sounds). As long as the drive train and frame are sound, I really don't worry about it, for that is just the nature of the beast. Good Luck!!"

Collin replied: "you could lube it, or tighten the bolts, you may want to dissasemble it and clean it( for rust or gunk in there) if you know how to do so or just go to a bike shop and have them check it out"

mountain bike sizing, help!? I am looking into buying a new mountain bike and spotted a deal for a secondhand bike. The frame measures 18 inch from the centre of the bottom bracket to the top of the seatpost tube and the top tube measures 22 inch from the centre of the headset to the centre of the seatpost down tube. i dont really understand this i am six foot (183 cm) would this bike fit me alright. any help would be much appreciated

Bob A replied: "Take your inseam X .59 to get the correct mountain bike frame size. The 18 inch will probably be too small and the cockpit will be cramped for you. My guess is a 20 - 21 inch frame. "

MtBikr replied: "The size one rides is based on inseam not height. However you may find an 18" frame just right. If you ride tight tech. trails a slightly smaller frame will work better when the trails get tight. Get sized to make sure you get the proper frame or find someone with a bike with the same frame size and try it out."

I need HELP on choosing my new mountain bike, which one out of these 4? ok, so I am buying a new mountain bike and I need you guys input on which one. I have to choose from the... Thanks, really, for everyones help I can't dicide '07 Hardrock Pro Disc '06 RockHopper Pro Disc '05 Specialized FSR XC '07 RockHopper Comp Disc Here are the specifications of each bike... 2006 Specialized Rockhopper Pro Disc Frame: A1 Premium Aluminum Fork: Marzocchi Drop OFF Comp, 130mm-travel Rims/Wheels: Sun SingleTrack Hubs Front: Specialized disc; Rear: Shimano M-475 disc Spokes: Stainless-steel Tires: Specialized Enduro, 26 x 2.3 Crankset: TruVativ Blaze Chainwheel: 32/22 w/bash guard Front Derailleur: Shimano Deore Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore LX Rear Cogs: Shimano HG50, 9-speed: 11-34 Shifters: Shimano Deore SL Handlebars: Aluminum riser, 31.8mm Tape/Grips: Specialized double-density Kraton Stem: TruVativ XR Brake Levers: Avid FR-5 Brakes: Avid BB5, mechanical disc Pedals: Aluminum platform Saddle: Specialized Body Geometry Sport MTB Seat Post: Aluminum, micro-adjustable Seat Binder: Aluminum quick-release 2007 Specialized Hardrock Pro Disc Frame: Specialized A1 Premium aluminum w/O.R.E. technology Fork: Marzocchi MZ Race LO, 100mm-travel w/lockout Rims/Wheels: Specialized/Alex Hubs Front: Specialized Hi Lo disc; Rear: Shimano M475 disc Spokes: 14-gauge stainless-steel Tires: Specialized Resolution, 26 x 2.1 Crankset: Shimano Chainwheel: 44/32/22 Front Derailleur: Shimano Deore Rear Derailleur: SRAM SX-5 Rear Cogs: Shimano HG50, 9-speed: 11-34 Shifters: SRAM SX-5 Trigger Handlebars: Aluminum, 31.8mm Tape/Grips: Specialized Enduro double-density Kraton Stem: Specialized 3D forged-aluminum Brake Levers: Hayes Sole Brakes: Hayes Sole, hydraulic disc, 6-inch rotors Pedals: Specialized aluminum platform Saddle: Specialized Body Geometry ATB Seat Post: Aluminum, micro-adjustable 2007 Specialized Rockhopper Comp Disc Frame: Specialized A1 Premium aluminum w/O.R.E. technology Fork: RockShox Tora 302 SL, 100mm-travel Rims/Wheels: Specialized/Alex Hubs: Specialized Hi Lo disc Spokes: 15-gauge stainless-steel Tires: Specialized Fast Trak, 26 x 2.0 Crankset: Shimano Chainwheel: 44/32/22 Front Derailleur: Shimano Deore Rear Derailleur: Shimano Deore Rear Cogs: Shimano HG50, 9-speed: 11-34 Shifters: Shimano Deore Handlebars: Aluminum riser Tape/Grips: Specialized Enduro Stem: Specialized 3D forged-aluminum Brake Levers: Avid FR-5 Brakes: Avid BB5, mechanical disc, 6-inch rotors Pedals: Specialized Aluminum Saddle: Specialized Body Geometry MTB Seat Post: Specialized aluminum 2005 Specialized FSR XC Frame: A1-aluminum, FSR technology Fork: Manitou Axel Comp 100mm-travel Headset: Aluminum Rear Shock: X-Fusion air Rims/Wheels: Aluminum Hubs Front: Stout Disc; Rear: Shimano Disc Tires: Specialized Adrenaline, 26 x 2.0 Crankset: Shimano, square taper Chainwheel: 44/32/22 Chain: Shimano Front Derailleur: Shimano Deore Rear Derailleur: Shimano LX Rear Cogs: Shimano Deore LX, 9-speed: 11-34 Shifters: Shimano Deore Handlebars: XC low-rise Tape/Grips: MTB double-density Kraton Stem: 3D forged-aluminum, 6-degree rise Brake Levers: Shimano Brakes: Linear-pull, aluminum Pedals: Aluminum platform Saddle: Body Geometry, dual-density base, steel rails Seat Post: Aluminum Seat Binder: Aluminum quick-release

legally_brunette replied: "2007 Specialized Rockhopper Comp Disc, cuz it sounds good."

tjdrum7 replied: "The 2005 FSR XC- I Would prefer this BREAKING SYSTEM . All the others are the same (CRAP). Otherwise ,all the other features are about the same, or else don't matter enough."

Rene replied: "2007 Specialized Hardrock Pro Disc Don't forget your helmet and knee & elbow pads. Just saw a kid fall and got hurt BAD!"

its this KHS downhill mountain bike worth $600? heres the link...... this is what its got. aw am im talking about 600 new zealand dollars KHS DJ300 MOUNTAIN BIKE This bike is perfect for all types of riding ive used it for mountainbiking, dirt jumping and down hill. Great for anyone trying to nail that tail whip over the double or the huge 40 footer. This has JUICY 3'S ($300 value) not crappy hayes sole's!!!!!! Great, tidy condition, Hydraulic disc brakes juicy three's, 120mm front fork travel. 2006, Medium. Rear tyre, handgrips a bit worn. Dirt jumping model Frame Construction TIG-welded Frame Tubing Material 6061 aluminum Fork Brand & Model Marzocchi Dirt Jam Pro, 120mm Components: Component Group SRAM X.7/mix Brakeset Juicy 3 hydraulic, 8" rotors brakes, 2-finger levers Shift Levers Sram X.7 Front Derailleur Shimano Deore FD-M530L6L Rear Derailleur Sram 5 X 4 Crankset Truvativ Hussefelt w/Rock Guard, 32/22 teeth Pedals Alloy platform VP-559 Bottom Bracket Truvativ Howitzer BB Shell Width 68mm English Rear Cogs 9-speed, 11 - 34 teeth Chain KMC Z9000, 1/2 x 3/32" Seatpost Truvativ XR double clamp Saddle KHS VL-2044 Handlebar Truvativ Hussefelt Handlebar Extensions Not applicable Handlebar Stem Truvativ Hussefelt Headset 1 1/8" threadless TH-877 Wheels Hubs Formula Disc Rims Weinmann DM-30 doublewall, 36-hole Tires Front: 26 x 2.5 WTB Timberwolf High Roller Rear: 26 x 2.30" Maxis Spoke Brand Stainless steel, 14ga. (2.0mm) straight gauge Spoke Nipples Brass nipples WOULD PREFER PICK UP AS I AM NOT PREPARED TO PACKAGE IT!

sno f replied: "looks good i'd get it."

kramnnim replied: "If it fits you, and suits the type of riding you plan on doing. I'd suggest going to check it out in person first, if you can..."

cryptidtruth replied: "Definitely! Dang, that's a really good deal. That bike is probably worth several thousand. I recognize all these components. THe Truvativ Hussefelt crankset will get you through anything. The Juicy 3's are tank stoppers. The marzocchi fork will soften up big drops. The other people who answered this don't know anything about bikes."

what happens if I crashed my mountain bike twice: is that what's causing the noise? I crashed my mountain bike twice now and a few months later I noticed it is making a noise I think from when my right leg makes the down-pedal towards the ground. I've been riding bikes for over 30 years and I am hard pressed to trouble shoot this noise. I'd like to guess it has to do with the bottom bracket but I don't have my crank arm puller and tools to look at the bearings. The rims are straight and the gears still shift fine. I also raised the neck probably past the safety notch indicated on it and am wondering if that might cause any noises to be coming out of the headset. Any suggestions on how I would trouble shoot the problem and is it possible I could have a bent frame or fork and if so how would that affect the bike? It still rides as straight as it did when I bought it (riding with no hands to see if the bike has good balance and rolls straight without me having to correct the steering by grabbing the handlebars.) I'd like to guess the noise is coming from near the bottom bracket area. Both times I dumped the bike it landed on the left side away from the derailer. There is no noise when I am not peddling and the bike never rode that straight to begin with. It's a 19.5" chromoly frame with aluminum three piece crank. What kind of noise would I hear if the bottom bracket bearings were bone dry or falling apart? The guy I bought the bike from said the bottom bracket is like a type where I replace the whole thing (lousy explanation here, I know.) It doesn't always make the noise but the noise does seem to be more pronounced when I am in low gear. I usually keep the front sprocket set to the middle chain-ring (21 speed.)

Kevin L replied: "Most bottom brackets are a sealed unit these days so to pull the crank arms off and take a peek probably wouldn't do you any good. Not knowing what the direct "NOISE" is confuses me too. Is it a click, a grind, do you feel vibration or resistance as well? Please be more specific with what you feel and hear while making your down stroke. There's an extreme difference in what may be coming from your crankset and your headset. I say splurge for $50 and take it to a bike shop for an inspection and tune up. Bottom brackets are pretty tough unless you bent the housing in the frame where it mounts. Without seeing it here and fully hearing the noise, I doubt you will get the answer you seek here. Lots of opinions, but I say let a pro mechanic take a look at it. Sorry I can't help."

Bob A replied: "Sounds like a bottom bracket bearing. If you notice it right about the 2 o clock position when you are pedaling hard and you can feel it in the pedal as much as you hear it chances are the BB needs adjusted. I would take it apart and repack the bearings. "

gato carnalito replied: "Sometimes it is really frustrating when it is not possible to spot where this noises are coming from. I've just had a similar situation a couple of weeks ago and immediately thought it was the bottom bracket. I had to get the shimano octalink BB extractor and replaced the part. Having done this, the noise was still there. In the end, it was the rear block release skewer that was loose, can you believe it? Just in case, tight it up."

Danny replied: "If you've crashed twice maybe you should look where your going in future?"

Marlarkey replied: "If you're using clips/straps or clip-less, pedal with one leg only. This way you may be able to verify the side that causes the noise. Noise on one side only is often from the pedal or crank. Most likely sources of noise when pedaling: Pedals, they often click. Dissemble, clean, reassemble or replace with new. Chain rings. Tighten chain-ring bolts. Cranks, they can click,creak or squeak. Remove cranks, clean grease and reinstall. The seat post on mountain bikes are notorious for noise. (grit and dirt gets in seat tube) Do you hear the noise when you stand? If not, it could be the source. Remove, clean, grease and replace. Handle bars can make a creaking noise as you pull on them during a hard effort. Remove handle bars from stem and clean. A one piece bottom bracket can make noise because it's slightly loose. Remove the left crank, loosen the nut retaining the bottom bracket (special tool needed) then re-tighten. If you can do the work yourself, it's worth the investment in tools. Otherwise, take the bike to your local bike shop."

Paul RN replied: "Good mountain bikes are pretty tough, and crashing is part of what they do best. The noise didn't start for a few months, so it's probably not related. The BB bearings are typically sealed, but a few years of beating on the bike and you replace them. They're pretty cheap and a bike shop can replace them in 20 minutes. It's just maintenance."

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